Backpacking in Haleakalā National Park
Kaupo Gap and a Loop from Haleakalā Summit and the Sliding Sands TrailHead
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Published February 4, 2024
Location: Haleakalā National Park, Maui, HI
Days: 3 (2 nights)
Standard Loop:
Total Miles: 23.3 / Total Elevation Gain: 3,560 feet
Day 1: 9.3 miles / 3,650 feet elevation loss
Day 2: 6.4 miles / 560 feet elevation gain
Day 3: 7.5 miles / 3,000 feet elevation gain
Kaupo Gap:
Total Miles: 22.4 / Total Elevation Gain: 9,500
Day 1: about 8.5 miles / about 6,000 feet elevation gain
Day 2: 6.4 miles / 560 feet elevation gain
Day 3: 7.5 miles / 3,000 feet elevation gain
Best Season: Spring through Fall
Permits: Necessary for overnight camping in the crater, acquired at the Haleakalā Visitor Center
Both routes have the option to take the steep Silversword Loop as a side trail.
Haleakalā National Park – situated on the Hawaiian island of Maui – is home to rugged and beautiful tropical volcanic terrain. With two different backcountry camping areas in the park, you can spend a few days backpacking through the volcano’s 2.4-mile-wide valley.
Maui is not just images of undeveloped beaches, ocean sunsets, swimsuits, and snorkels. Upcountry Maui has lush green mountains that jut up from the shores and into the clouds; vast swaths of red-brown volcanic rock speckled with endemic flora; reaching for your puffy jacket at 10,000 feet elevation atop a dormant volcano. As a backpacker, you’ll experience parts of the island many visitors don’t see.
While you’ll find plenty of other sight-seers at the Haleakalā summit – which can be accessed by the paved Crater Road – few of them also venture onto the trails that lead into the volcano’s valleys and spend the night there. Backpacking through Haleakalā brings seclusion, wilderness, and a chance to explore one of the most unique parts of Maui.
Before visiting, it is important to learn the history, usage, and spirituality of this sacred mountain that has been tended to by the Kānaka Maoli people — also known as native Hawaiians — for more than 1,000 years. Taking the time to learn about the area will make you appreciate your visit more.
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Haleakalā National Park Quick Facts
A rainbow along the hike to the Paliku campsite in Haleakalā National Park.
Haleakalā National Park encompasses Maui’s shield volcano, the park’s namesake, which is considered sacred to the Kānaka Maoli people.
Haleakalā National Park is one of two national parks in Hawai'i, the other is Hawaiʻi Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island.
The volcano’s summit sits at 10,023 feet in elevation, giving it impressive prominence from Maui’s beaches. It's the tenth most prominent summit in North America.
While it’s natural to assume that the dip in the volcano that can be seen from the summit is a crater, it is actually a valley carved by natural forces like wind and erosion.
You’ll find endemic flora and fauna species in the national park, including the rare nēnē (the Hawaiian goose) and ‘ahinahina (silversword), a Hawaiian plant found nowhere else in the world.
Hiking through the volcano’s valley, you’ll see lava formations and conical steam vents as a part of the volcanic landscape.
Two separate designated wilderness campsites exist in the volcano’s valley for backpackers to use.
Tourists flock to the summit of Haleakalā for sunrise via the paved Crater Road into the park, but few choose to backpack through it. Get up early to hike under the stars and arrive at the summit for sunrise before all the folks driving up.
Bring a warm jacket! That’s probably the last thing on your list when planning a trip to Maui, but you’ll be thankful when you’re atop a 10,000-foot summit before sunrise.
Kānaka Maoli people (native Hawaiians) have lived on and malama (cared for) this area for over 1000 years and consider the Haleakalā volcano sacred. Learn more about the people and place of Haleakalā and how you can help preserve this cultural resource for future generations.
Two nēnē Hawaiian geese at the Paliku campsite.
Highlights and challenges
Highlights
Stunning scenery and fascinating geologic features throughout the trek and at both campsites
Waking to the sound and sight of nēnē (Hawaiian geese) outside your tent door
Watching the sunrise from the summit of Haleakalā
Solitude and quiet at the backcountry campsites
Challenges
Blistering midday heat in the volcano’s valley
Finding camp fuel is a struggle
Access to water is unreliable, so packing water in may be necessary
A sunrise from Haleakalā summit, which is considered sacred to the Kānaka Maoli people, who have lived on and malama (cared for) this area for over 1000 years.
How to Respectfully Visit Haleakalā
When visiting Hawaiʻi, do your part to be a respectful tourist. It is important that visitors to the park recognize the cultural importance of Haleakalā to native Hawaiians.
Many places within the summit and valley areas of the park are considered sacred to Hawaiians and should be treated with respect. We should remember that this land belongs first and foremost to the Hawaiian people, though it has been colonized by white settlers.
We highly recommend reading Detours: A Decolonial Guide to Hawai’i (Amazon| Bookshop.org) before your trip.
Detours is edited by Vernadette Vicuña Gonzalez, an Associate Professor of American Studies at the University of Hawai'i at Mānoa and Hōkūlani K. Aikau, an Associate Professor of Gender Studies and Ethnic Studies at the University of Utah
Similarly, be mindful of the Hawaiian tradition of Malama ka ‘aina i ke kai. Meaning to “take care of the land and ocean,” it has been described between people and the land: the island provides shelter, food, and other resources and thus, is the responsibility and duty of people to care for the land in return.
It’s especially important in Hawaiʻi to not take anything with you. Notably, taking lava rocks and black sand is not only considered inconsiderate but is said to be associated with bad luck.
This quote from a Maui News story gives a brief explanation of the significance of Haleakalā to native Hawaiians. Consider reading the full story to understand the impact of tourism on the park with the added stress of Covid, a lack of funding, and a lack of employees within the park service.
“Haleakalā stands out among many other parks in the U.S. because it serves as a cultural, historical, and spiritual source for the Native Hawaiian people. Translated as “House of the Sun,” the mountain is viewed as Pele’s house, and still contains spiritual iwi, or burials, with strong ancestral connections to some island residents.”
Visitors to the park are encouraged to treat the land with respect by packing out all trash and not taking anything, such as rocks, from the park. As always, practice Leave No Trace principles. Stick to trails and established routes to respect iwi in the park.
In addition to respecting Haleakalā and its people, the Hawaiʻi Department of Land and Natural Resources has resources on respectfully visiting sites in Hawaiʻi. Read this guide on what to expect culturally in Hawaiʻi before you go.
This interview with a native Hawaiian scholar Maile Arvin and decolonizing journalist Bani Amorfrom Matador Network offers insight into the links between tourism and colonialism in Hawaiʻi. We encourage you to read this as you consider planning a trip to any of the islands.
A tent at the Paliku campsite. Be prepared for rain no matter what season you visit Haleakalā National Park.
Best Season
Though Maui has a temperate climate and can be lovely and warm any time of year, the best time to plan your visit is from mid-spring to early fall. Midsummer is the driest time of year, but it’s also the busiest. If you prefer to dodge some of the crowds, head there in the shoulder seasons of spring and fall.
While the rainy season runs from November to April, be prepared for rain no matter when you go. You could be met with beautiful, bluebird days or unexpected monsoon-like rains.
Conical steam coming out of Haleakalā crater.
Difficulty and Skills
Backpacking through Haleakalā National Park is only moderately difficult. Most of the hiking is on mildly undulating terrain, and the trails through the park are well-marked, as are the backcountry campsites. If you’re looking for a challenge, there’s a 2500-foot climb out of the valley along the Sliding Sands trail on, unsurprisingly, sand that can be a calf-crusher. We think this is a great trip for any backpacker with at least a little experience.
Despite the fact that you’re on an island near the beach, the Haleakalā summit sits 10,023 feet above sea level. Given how high up you’re headed, you’ll want to hike at a moderate pace to acclimate, drink plenty of water, and note any symptoms of altitude sickness like headache and nausea.
Hiking Haleakalā is like hiking through the desert. This means that nights and early mornings can bring a chill, and daytime temperatures can easily reach 90F degrees. Trekking through volcanic terrain also means a lack of natural shade; it’s highly likely that the only shade you’ll find in the middle of the day will be your hiking umbrella, your sun hat, or your tent’s rainfly. We recommend you plan to hike in the early mornings and late evenings, resting at midday to avoid overheating. Wear UPF sun protective clothing and non-toxic reef-safe sunscreen to protect your skin.
In addition to temperature extremes and lack of shade, Haleakalā National Park also lacks water. There is no potable water in the volcano’s valley. While there are water catchment tanks at the campsites, water levels can run low and sometimes go completely dry – and what water there is will need to be treated or filtered. Before you head out, check with park rangers about the latest water levels, and plan to pack plenty with you.
Preparing for these challenges will reward you with incredible scenery, sights of rare flora and fauna, and the chance to pitch your tent under the stars atop a Hawaiian volcano.
The Kaupo Gap route up to Haleakalā crater is more challenging. Here, we’re backpaking from Paliku campsite to Holua camp, which is the same as on the standard route.
Kaupo Gap Difficulty and Skills
If you decide to take the Kaupo Gap route up to the Haleakalā crater, it’s important to understand that this route is much more challenging than the standard one described above. In order to safely hike this route, you should have excellent route-finding skills, be able to read topographic maps and be able to climb several thousand vertical feet in a day.
Until you reach the Haleakalā crater within the National Park border, there is no clearly defined hiking trail. This requires hikers to navigate through challenging terrain for several miles. The Kaupo Gap also crosses through private property. Hikers are allowed to do this through an easement, but it’s important to be conscious of this while traveling through this section of the route. For these reasons, park rangers typically recommend the standard route through the crater. However, we think skilled hikers will enjoy the challenge and adventure of the Kaupo Gap if they’re prepared for it.
Permits
There are two wilderness tent camping areas (Hōlua and Palikū) in Haleakalā National Park with designated tent sites, pit toilets, and seasonal non-potable water. Permits for both camping areas must be obtained in advance through recreation.gov.
Permits are released six months at a time in February and August.
There are no walk-up permits available.
Campsites are free, but recreation.gov charges an $8 fee for online reservations and $9 for telephone reservations.
A park entrance fee is also required.
You must have a printed copy of your permit during your trip.
Each campsite can hold 2 tents and up to 5 people.
You are required to watch the park’s Leave No Trace video prior to your trip.
Routes
We recommend two routes to explore Haleakalā National Park. The standard route is a loop that follows a well-defined trail the entire time within park boundaries. For hikers looking for a straightforward option, this loop is a fantastic way to see the crater.
If you’re up for a bigger climb, some tricky route-finding, and don’t mind coordinating a shuttle, the Kaupo Gap route offers an adventure all its own. Both routes utilize the same campsites inside park boundaries, where permits are required for overnighting. Regardless of where you start, be sure to obtain permits at recreation.gov before you begin.
The standard route has an option to take a less than half mile detour on the Silversword Loop to visit a large and dense patch of ‘ahinahina (silversword) plant.
Route Summary: Standard Route
Loop from Haleakalā Summit / Sliding Sands Trail Head:
The primary and most accessible route for backpacking in the Haleakalā Summit District is to hike a loop that begins and ends at the Sliding Sands trailhead.
With this route, you’ll spend one night at each wilderness campsite in the park for a total of two nights and three days.
Day 1
Start your trek by hiking 9.3 miles on the Sliding Sands trail to the Palikū campsite from the Sliding Sands trailhead. You’ll descend over 2,000 feet from the summit area and hike across to the east end of the volcano’s valley. Beginning in desert-like scenery, you’ll wind up at a wilderness tent area beneath a lush green rainforest cliff perched in the clouds. Listen to the sound of water trickling down the cliffside and keep your eyes peeled for nēnē that commonly roam the area.
Day 2
On day two, pack up camp at Palikū and head west along the Honokahua and Halemau’u trails to the Hōlua campsite. At just under 6.5 miles from Palikū camp to Holuā camp, this trail winds through the crater’s center, passing through areas of colorful sands, hardened lava fields, and around conical steam vents.
Along this trail, there’s a short detour (less than half a mile) called the Silversword Loop that skirts past a large and dense patch of ‘ahinahina (silversword). Take this short offshoot to marvel at the unique native plant. Hōlua camp boasts sweeping views of the Ko’olau gap in the volcano. You’ll have a chance to rest here before the final climb back out of the volcano the next day.
Day 3
Day three brings a 7.5-mile hike with just over 2,500 feet of elevation gain from Hōlua camp back to the summit area. We recommend starting early for this day in order to catch the sunrise from the summit. It’s an early morning mile-crusher, but it’s well worth it. Enjoy watching the sun peek over the ocean’s horizon from Haleakalā’s summit before returning to your car.
You could do this loop in reverse if you prefer, but it turns your longest day into your last day. There are also other trails outside of the loop that is accessible from the Hōlua campsite. Soak up as much Haleakalā as possible by spending an extra night here and taking a day-to-day hike from camp.
Hiking through Haleakala crater from Kaupo gap is an exciting route that immerses you within the landscape.
Route Summary: Kaupo Gap
The Kaupo Gap route up to Haleakalā presents hikers with a fun and challenging opportunity to hike from nearly sea level to the 10,000-foot summit over the course of a 3-day trek. Unlike the standard loop from the summit, you’ll need some kind of shuttle for this route, since it begins in Kaupo and ends at the Haleakalā summit area.
The Kaupo Gap is also far more strenuous than the standard loop, gaining a total of nearly 10,000 feet over the course of three days, with most of the climbing on day one.
The total mileage for the route is similar to the standard loop, about 22.5 miles. (We say “about” because there is no official trail to follow until you reach the National Park border, and day one could vary in distance depending on route finding.)
Day 1
Begin in Kaupo on the southern side of the island at the Kaupo General Store. You’ll follow a dirt road for a few minutes before arriving at the poorly-marked trailhead. This is where the route (and route-finding!) begins.
Navigate through tall cane grass and dense vegetation, following trail markers. It’s important to move slowly and intentionally here in order to find your way. It’s incredibly easy to lose the route.
In this beginning section you’ll be hiking on private property (Kaupo Ranch), which has granted the park an easement, so be considerate of that. There is no camping allowed on the ranch property, so be sure you’re able to make the climb up to the first wilderness tent area in the park boundaries on day one. It’s also worth noting the signs that warn against feral dogs, and there are wild boars that roam the area, too.
We got lost multiple times and stumbled across a sounder of wild boars amidst torrential downpour all within the first hour of our trek—adventure at its finest! Day one brings nearly 6,000 feet of climbing over about 8.5 miles and hours of tedious route-finding in order to reach the Palikū campsite for night one.
Day 2
Days two and three are more easygoing, by a long shot.
From camp at Palikū, hike 6.4 miles through the center of the crater along the Honokahua and Halemau’u trails to the Hōlua campsite. (This is the same as day two on the standard loop, so you again have the option to take the short detour along the Silversword Loop.) This day offers lots of interesting views from inside the crater but be prepared for full sun exposure the entire hike.
Day 3
On day three, follow the Sliding Sands trail for 7.5 miles from Hōlua to the summit of Haleakalā. You’ll gain about 3,000 feet from camp to the summit. It’s worth an early wake-up call on this day in order to catch the sunrise from the summit of the volcano.
Remember, even though it’s a tropical island in the Pacific, you’re still at 10,000 feet. We felt a little over-prepared bringing our puffy jackets to Maui, but when we were sitting atop the summit of the volcano waiting for the sun to rise, we were sure glad we had them.
If you’re up for the challenge, the Kaupo Gap route is an exciting hike that fully immerses you in the landscapes of Maui. Just be sure you’re prepared for it.
Cabin rentals
Along with the wilderness campsites in the park, there are also three wilderness cabins available to hikers: one at the Palikū campsite, one at the Hōlua campsite, and the Kapalaoa cabin in between the two along the Sliding Sands trail. The cabins offer bunks, cooking space, and pit toilets but do not have electricity or running water. A stay in these historic cabins requires park permits and advanced reservations through recreation.gov with a nightly rental fee. Reservations are released 6 months at a time in February and August.
Regulations
Like all national parks and any wilderness area, hikers and campers must practice Leave No Trace etiquette while in Haleakalā National Park. Be mindful to stay on established trails and routes to protect cultural resources and rare plants.
Be sure to secure your backcountry camping permits before hitting the trail and keep your permit displayed on your backpack or tent.
Always stay on the trail and respect the delicate landscape.
Remember to pack out all trash with you.
While there is wood stocked for the cabins in the park for use in the stoves, campfires are prohibited anywhere in Haleakalā National Park (and you’re unlikely to find any firewood anyway).
Maps and Guidebooks
A basic map of the park’s trails can be found on the National Park Service website. You can also purchase a detailed topographic map of the park from National Geographic.
Flying to Maui
Maui has several airports. However, the main airport is Kahului Airport (OGG). There are direct flights from the mainland including most major and middle-size airports on the West Coast including Seattle, Anchorage, Portland, Sacramento, San Diego, and most Los Angeles-area and Bay Area airports.
It also has direct flights from Chicago, Denver, Dallas, Phoenix, Las Vegas, Vancouver, Newark, and Salt Lake City. It has seasonal flights from Calgary, Edmonton, and Toronto.
Getting There
Once you’re in Maui, you’ll want to rent a car to drive the Haleakalā Highway to the Haleakalā summit district where you’ll be able to park. This is where you’ll find your start and endpoint at the Sliding Sands trailhead.
While there are a variety of other transportation options on the island--like taxis, Uber, and private shuttles — renting a car is the best option for getting to the Summit District of Haleakalā.
Plus, renting a car for the duration of your time on Maui gives you the opportunity to see more of the island at your leisure. There are scenic roads on the island worth driving if you have the time, like the Road to Hana and Maui’s northwest coast.
Coffee in camp at the Paliku tentsite.
Gear List
For backpacking in Haleakalā, here is a list of gear we recommend bringing.
Backpack
Since this backpacking trip is only weekend-sized, a large pack isn’t necessary. Depending on how much water you plan to pack with you, a 30-45 liter backpack should be plenty sufficient. See our Best Backpacking Backpacks guide for more recommendations.
First Aid Kit
Bring along a basic backcountry first aid kit with all the essentials. We like the Adventure Medical Kits.
3-season tent with rainfly
You’re most likely to encounter cool-but-not-too-cold nights in the Haleakalā crater, so a three-season tent is all that’s necessary. If it’s warm and dry, camping without a rainfly gives you top-notch stargazing opportunities. But, don’t leave the rainfly at home; it can rain anytime here, and the lush cliffside at Palikū can give off lots of wet fog and trickling water. Check out our Best Backpacking Tents story for more recommendations.
Lightweight summer sleeping bag
A summer sleeping bag rated anywhere from 30-50 degrees, depending on your preferences, is ideal for backpacking on Maui. Synthetic and down fill will both work, with dry treated down being the best option for balancing weight and packability with moisture resistance. Check out our recommendations in our Best Backpacking Sleeping Bags guide or consider some of the lightweight summer options in our Best Camping Sleeping bags guide.
Sleeping pad
A packable, inflatable sleeping pad is a great choice for this trip. A secondary closed-cell foam pad isn’t necessary since it’s fairly warm unless you prefer to bring it along for comfort. See our Best Backpacking Sleeping Pads guide for more suggestions.
Lightweight, wicking hiking clothes (UPF clothing that blocks the sun is best)
Because of the intense sun in the volcano, wearing a lightweight long sleeve shirt that wicks sweat and blocks the sun is ideal. It’s tempting to wear shorts in the hot temperatures, but a lightweight pair of hiking pants will save your calves from sunburns. Clothing that has a UPF rating for UV is best since the fibers are woven tightly to protect your skin from harmful rays from the sun. See our Best Sun Shirts guide or Best Base Layers guide for more recommendations.
Hat or cap for sun protection
You’ll want to protect your face and neck from sunburn, too, so stash a good hiking hat in your pack for when the midday sun is unavoidable.
Lightweight hiking boots or trail running shoes
We’d recommend prioritizing comfort and breathability in your hiking boots or shoes for this trip since temperatures can be hot and waterproofing isn’t a big concern on these trails. One thing to keep in mind is that you’ll encounter lots of sandy trails, so shoes that keep sand out or that are easy to take on and off to empty sand are a good choice.
Check out our Best Hiking Boots story or our Best Lightweight Hiking Boots article for recommendations for this trip. If you're interested in hiking in trail running shoes, we recommend reading our Best Trail Running Shoes story.
A nice footwear compromise for this trip would’ve been hiking shoes designed to feel like a trail runner but have stability similar to a boot. See our Best Hiking Shoes story for footwear that has more durability and stability than trail runners.
Lightweight rain shell
While there’s a good chance you’ll encounter some precipitation, the rain on Maui is typically warm rain. We’d opt for a lightweight and packable rain shell that you can use in a pinch and leave the heavyweight GORE-TEX shell at home. Even if it is raining, it will likely be too hot to want to wear a burly shell like that. See our Best Lightweight Rain Jackets article for more recommendations.
Lightweight puffy jacket
Though your days spent hiking in the Haleakalā crater will be sunny and sweat-inducing, the nights and mornings can bring a chill, especially at the volcano’s summit. We were very happy to have our puffy jackets on hand while waiting to watch the sunrise from the top of Haleakalā. See our Best Synthetic Insulated Jackets guide for more recommendations.
Water and/or water filtration system
Check with park rangers on the status of the water catchment systems before heading into the crater. Treat all water from the catchment systems before drinking. See our Best Backpacking Water Filters guide for our favorite water filters for backpacking.
Camp stove and fuel (if available)
A lightweight backpacking stove like the MSR Pocket Rocket 2 is great for this trip, as long as you’re able to find fuel for it. Outdoor stores like Adventure Sports Maui in Kahului typically carry these, but they may run out of stock. It’s worth checking these shops a couple of days before your backpacking trip starts to ensure you have what you need.
CAMPING COOKWARE
If a cooking pot is not included with your stove system, be sure to bring lightweight backpacking cookware. Don't forget your eating utensils! See our Best Backpacking Cooking pots story for more recommendations.
Plenty of non-toxic reef-safe sunscreen
Hawai'i passed a law requiring all sunscreen to be Reef Safe Sunscreen, which went into effect in 2021. Even if a sunscreen is non-toxic and approved by the FDA, it is not allowed unless it is certified reef safe. This is because Hawai'i's ecosystem is sensitive to chemicals found in many sunscreen products, even those approved by the FDA.
Although this backpacking trip will have you traveling far from the ocean, be aware of the law before purchasing sunscreen. We have reef-safe sunscreen options in our body sunscreen and face sunscreen stories.
HEADLAMP
Not only are headlamps handy to have when trying to navigate, but they’re one of the Ten Essentials for general safety. See our Best Headlamps guide for other recommendations.
